Matières Fécales – The One Percent F/W 26

THE ONE PERCENT F/W26

Power affects us all. Whether it’s the corruption of power by those who lead us or the lack of power from those who seek it. We all have a relationship with it and that’s ultimately what this collection is about.

I grew up in one of the poorest neighborhoods in Montréal called Cartierville and Hannah grew up in the richest neighborhood, Westmount. She went to a private school, I went to a public one. She was born with a set of privileges due to her skin colour and I was born with a different set due to mine. Although it’s been a challenge at times to find common ground, our clashing upbringings has given us the ability to not just experience one side of the coin, but both and our love for one another is the glue that ties our conflicting worlds together.

I can vividly remember being a toddler waiting at the bus stop with my mother holding grocery bags during the harsh Canadian winter. A fancy sports car would drive by and pause at the stop light. I would lean in and look observantly behind the tinted windows in awe of the picture perfect family cruising comfortably. Who knows, perhaps Hannah was in that car with her family and if it was, she would insist that that comfort isn’t as glamorous as it looks on the outside.

That memory became the starting point of developing this collection; dissecting all the codes of luxury and wealth that most society aspires to embody. That elite world can either empower you or can leave you feeling powerless if you aren’t part of it.

The collection is divided within three tableaux of Power; the power of archetypes, the power of community and finally the power of the future. Each look tells parts of our story and hopefully a valuable lesson to learn.

The bourgeois family opens the show. It’s an appropriation of high class attire; a lost form of glamour. More importantly, revealing the painful obsession of beauty and the monstrous coldness that exists within elitism.

We “Fecalized” the New Look by injecting our distorted vision of glamour. Guilt is a feeling that often requires empathy, something power usually distorts. White lamb leather couture opera length gloves with red palms titled “Guilt Gloves” not only matches perfectly with our new heels designed with Louboutin.

We closed this tableau with obnoxiously large bow ball gowns on women who just had extreme work done. We wanted to reveal the healing process of these types of individuals who go under the knife in the quest for endless beauty. Only the queen of trompe l’oeuil Alexis Stone can pull off such realism as it’s part of her own obsession.

The second tableaux represents the power of community. Since our decade long journey to get to our debut last year in Paris, we are often called a Cult Brand because of our strong base of supporters who adopt and live by our values. We wanted to explore that through jersey hoodie capes with elongated kangaroo pockets. They are worn by our friends and family who often feel powerless in these very disturbingly conservative times.

Hannah leads  ‘The Immortals’ tableaux in our ‘New Look’, an albino python cocoon skirt suit in our signature silhouette with heeless skin boots morphing into her legs. There is a part of the one percent that have access to tools of life that most of us don’t.

Someone like Bryan Johnson doesn’t use these tools to enhance his outer shell like the others do for vanity pleasures, he’s obsessed with his internal imperfections and the extension of the human life. On the other side, is our dear friend and Parisian mother Michèle Lamy. She is defiant and transcends time while embracing the natural beauty of aging without fear.

12 years ago, our fashion school teacher Milan Tanedjikov presented our graduating project brief, asking us to speculatively design for 2026. The collection we are presenting today is a continuation of that project we designed all those years ago titled “The One Percent”. Today, he sits front row as our special guest. Debra Shaw closes the show in the same look I drew all the years ago, my take on one of the most powerful silhouettes, the one of an Elizabethan queen.

This story of power comes to an end and as we have seen in history time after time, too much power can eclipse our humanity. Perhaps that’s why we aren’t born gods.

Miss Sohee – Haute Couture SS26 – Breathing Forms

‘BREATHING FORMS’ For Spring/Summer 2026, I wanted to explore emotion through form, how the body can become a vessel for memory, landscape, and symbolism.

I approached the body as sculpture. Draped silk taffeta wraps and moves with rhythm, responding to each step as if it were alive. Fashion, to me, has no limits; it exists where clothing becomes art. Movement is fluid, and fabric is never static. It breathes, falls, and carries emotion. Throughout the collection, bamboo gardens and cherry blossoms seem to grow from the body, all handcrafted with feathers and fine layers of brass, blurring the line between nature and couture. The collection features 16 looks adorned with over 37,000 hand-embroidered Swarovski crystals, with select pieces requiring up to 2,500 hours of meticulous embroidery.

I was inspired by windows and the shadows created within a frame. I used the female silhouette as a frame to hold imagined scenes, wisteria gardens, orchids, and skies shifting from sunset to midnight in soft ombré hues. These narratives extend beyond the garments themselves, reflected onto folding screens and chairs, allowing the embroidery to exist within an environment rather than on clothing alone.

Hand painting became another key language. I treated the female body as a canvas, reinterpreting traditional Korean mountain landscapes (산수화) by Kim Hong do (김홍도) onto silk organza capes and overskirts. Layered sheers create depth, like ink painted hills fading into mist, all hand painted using traditional ink techniques.

Sheerness is celebrated throughout the collection. Japanese organza, one of the lightest fabrics in the world, appears weightless and floating, reimagined into a fluid kaftan. The naked body is not hidden but honored. Why cover what is already beautiful?

The gowns within this collection exist in conversation with one another. Each look responds to the next, creating a dialogue across textures, volumes, and moods. There is a subtle influence of the 1960s, simple, elegant silhouettes that feel restrained yet bold, allowing craftsmanship and proportion to speak.

The finale is an ethereal white bridal vision. Swarovski crystals embellish the veil in patterns inspired by Korean sea waves, catching the light with a sense of quiet reverence. The hooded veil draws inspiration from the 가락치마, referencing the tradition of Korean women covering their hair. My bride is both innocent and powerful. Protected, yet luminous.

Accessories complete the world. Couture phone cases are created in collaboration with CASETiFY, while self-designed handbags—adorned with mother of pearl—are handcrafted with Korean artisans and shaped into fan silhouettes and small trinket forms, reflecting light like fragments of memory. This collection is an exploration of femininity, heritage, and imagination. It is about framing emotion, allowing couture to hold stories, and redefining clothing as something deeply personal, an artwork worn on the body.

PR: Lucien Pages Communications / Savi Production: Premier Cri

Styling: Oliver Volquardsen  Casting: Svea Greichgauger

Makeup: Ciara O’Shea with Anastasia Beverly Hills 

Hair: Joana Neves with CosRX   Jewelry: Anabela Chan 

Wearable Sculptures in Brass: Kirk Maxson and Armando Farfan Jr  Couture Millinery: Edwina Ibbotson

Nails: GLOSSIFY   Florist: McQueens Flowers  Furniture: Oficina Inglesa

Photography: (catwalk) Jason Lloyd-Evans / Stefan Knauer (lookbook) Bohdan Bohdanov / Douglas Irvine  

Music / Composer: Umberto Gaudi

Videographer: (runway) Adrien Gontier by Famous Production / Adrien Gontier 

/ (lookbook) Nicolas Pereira    Backstage Videographer: Ángel Mellizo Guazo

Crystals by SWAROVSKI Collaboration Sponsorship by CASETiFY

Matières Fécales | Fashion Show 2025 – 2026

Matières Fécales | The other Fashion Show 2025

 

Matières Fécales F/W25 The Other This collection is about being fearless in your identity. It’s about walking into a room with your head held high, even if nobody wants you there. 

  It’s about getting bullied every day but still finding the courage to wake up and do it all over again. It’s about being rejected by your family simply because of who you love and what you love. It’s about never being able to feel fully safe and comfortable walking down the street in public, no matter where you are. It’s about the pain and suffering of being the other within humanity.   It’s about letting your dreams and fantasies take over your mind in hopes of covering the deep sorrows of your reality. It’s about dealing with so much hatred on a daily basis but still finding a way to spread joy through self-expression. It’s about your soul coming to life in your imagination because it’s too dangerous to let it come out in real life. It’s about finding others who share the same internal suffering as you do and together transforming it into something beautiful. It’s about our community that yearns to feel human through transforming into something beyond it.   This isn’t our first collection, but this is our first time manufacturing one. It’s taken us a full decade to get to this point. Since the start, it’s been about creating our own world; a world in which we can be free to express ourselves without limits, without fear.   Every look was sketched 10 months ago in one sitting by Steven in our Parisian 30 m2 apartment in the 2ème arrondissement on top of a pizza shop. A singular vision transformed into lines on paper. Styling, makeup, accessories, and shoes all created from those exact blueprints.    Our story begins with silhouettes that are sculpted and elegantly distorted into alienesque daywear. Hannah, wearing a razor-sharp tailored skirt suit in an Italian cashmere wool blend, was the first look sketched. Following that is a lineup playing on classic tropes of sophistication distorted and reimagined on a clan of bald and eyebrowless alienesque beauties. The tension within duality, a constant thematic in our work and our relationship as designers.   Bold high-neck shearling outerwear and cropped concave bombers act as protective gear for transformation like a butterfly needs to cocoon itself. Sculpted tailoring is worn with our infamous Destroy jeans, a Madonna favourite. We first made these jeans 10 years ago for our “Abondonner” collection, shot in Steven’s mother’s low-income housing communal laundry room in Montreal. Introducing new destroy offerings like the chic unravelled suits in custom tweed made in France with leatherette strands weaved in and our slashed cut-out jersey dress wrapping around the figure. Cozy but wrecked mohair knit sets and relaxed cross-seam denim are pumped with posture collar silhouettes.   The horn bag is our take on a power dressing bag accentuated with a BDSM whip clochette. Made in sclera black and toile beige air-brushed leather fabricated in Italy.    Drawing heels as a child was where it all started. Christian Louboutin’s red bottoms always felt like an act of defiance for bold beauty within a minefield of demure fashion. The collaboration feels like a match made in heaven and hell. We curved the pumps and distorted the classics to create something that looks straight out of a sketch.   Haute couture finale looks are worn by our friends and chosen family, like Lewis G Burton, radical trans performance artist and mother of the London underground scene, through her INFERNO platform. When we had no money and nowhere to sleep, Lewis took care of us and helped us find gigs during our London days. Jenna Marvin, trans Russian activist and another extreme performance artist, is setting new heights for our manifesto “Provoke Society”.    The unreal Debra Shaw wears the Winged Tuxedo, a suit sketched for her 10 months ago when we first created the debut collection. Imagery of Debra in McQueen by Nick Knight gave us insight into a world of beauty we never knew was possible or valid. It gave us permission and access to dream without fear.    Hannah’s finale titled “Ange Arc” is a wrapped micro hand-pleated chiffon dress with couture mutant wings bursting out of the bust; our take on the French couturier wedding dress archetype. A symbol of all the guardian angels who protected us during our battle to get here.